A slow clothing approach

Jane Milburn at ABC 702

Jane Milburn wears eco-dyed merino at ABC 702 Sydney

A transformational shift during the past two decades in the way we source, use and discard our clothing has major social and environmental implications caused by increasing volumes, changing fibres and loss of repair skills.

These changes in clothing culture brought Jane Milburn of Textile Beat to Ku-Ring-Gai Council in Sydney on Saturday (June 25) to workshop more sustainable approaches, including reviving garments in your wardrobe.  Jane was also interviewed by ABC 702’s Wendy Harmer about slow clothing, audio link below.

“Local councils report that about 4 percent of the household waste is textiles and most people know they can donate unwanted clothing for charitable recycling,” Ms Milburn said.

“Charities says about 15 percent of these donations are on-sold through op shops, 15 percent are ragged, 15 percent go to landfill and 55 percent are exported into the second-hand clothing trade.”

Continue Reading →

Grow a sustainable clothing culture

Jane Milburn outside Brisbane City HallJane Milburn spoke on a matter of public importance at the November 24 meeting of Brisbane City Council: (download Minutes or read speech and response_24_nov_2015)

“In the same way we’ve become aware of our food – we are becoming more conscious of our clothing.

Today you are either wearing natural-fibres – or synthetic fibres derived from petroleum. I’m wearing a shift created with rescued wool suits that were one step away from becoming landfill. As a natural-fibre champion with a background in issues-based communication, I am seeking to help create a more sustainable clothing culture.

Thank you for this opportunity to raise the matter at this Brisbane City Council meeting.The past decade has seen a transformational shift in where and how our clothing is made – which raises ethical issues such as:

  1. Consumption increase – in two decades, individual annual fibre use across the globe has doubled from 7 to 13 kg each
  1. Fibre change – a decade ago, half of new clothes were natural fibres and half synthetics. Now 2/3 of new clothing are synthetic – and research shows they shed microplastic particles with every wash.

Continue Reading →

Towards a sustainable clothing story

People use double the clothing they did two decades ago, with average global apparel fibre consumption* rising from 7 kilograms each in 1992 to 13 kilograms per person in 2013.

This has occurred as part of a transformational shift in the way we source clothing and the substance from which those clothes are made. Most clothing is now produced in factories for global supply chains and two-thirds of it is made using synthetic fibres derived from petroleum, according to Jane Milburn of Textile Beat.

During this National Recycling Week (9-15 November), Ms Milburn will discuss our clothing story as guest speaker at the Keep Australia Beautiful Australian Sustainable Cities 2015 Awards in Brisbane on November 13. The awards are running in tandem with the Recreate handmade market and Paper Fashion Parade in King George Square.

Global apparel fibre consumption vs population growth Continue Reading →

Slow Clothing

Slow Clothing is a philosophy. It is a way of thinking about how we buy, wear and care for clothes so they bring meaning, value and joy to every day. It is based on the premise that clothes do for us on the outside what food does inside. They warm and protect our bodies, and influence the way we feel and present to the world.

Slow Clothing considers what we wear from a health and wellbeing rather than fashion context. The philosophy is encapsulated in a book, Slow Clothing: finding meaning in what we wear, by Jane Milburn and available here. The book presents a compelling case for why we need to change the way we dress, to live lightly on Earth through the everyday practice of how we wear and care for our clothes.

Slow Clothing is the antithesis of fast fashion. It considers the ethics and sustainability of garments, values provenance and artisan skills while focusing on timeless style, comfort and connection. It is about thoughtful, ethical, creative and sustainable ways to enjoy the garments we wear every day while minimising our material footprint on the world. Slow Clothing manifests itself through 10 simple approaches – think, natural, quality, local, care, few, make, revive, adapt and salvage.

Jane Milburn wrote Slow Clothing: finding meaning in what we wear based on five years’ studying the need to transform the culture of excess in developed nations such as Australia. The book presents a compelling case for wearers to push back on fast-fashion culture that has led to exponential consumption and soaring use of synthetic fibres in the past decade.

Slow Clothing is about we – the wearers – taking action to buy, use and discard clothing in ways that minimise our material footprint. It includes a manifesto of actions and choices: think, natural, quality, local, few, care, make, revive, adapt and salvage.

Jane believes clothes do for us on the outside what food does inside. They protect and warm our bodies, and influence the way we feel and present to the world.

‘We eat and dress every day to survive and thrive, and in the same way we have become conscious of food and its impact on health and wellbeing, we are becoming conscious of the substance and origins of what we wear,’ Jane said.

‘With slow clothing, we reflect our own style and spirit, independent of fashion cycles. We buy carefully, gain skills, and care for what we wear as an embodiment of ourselves. Through this action we, the wearers, become original, authentic and resourceful.

‘Among other things, we are becoming interested in using simple hands-on techniques to make, recreate and repair some of our clothes. Until we make something for ourselves to wear, we cannot appreciate the resources, time and skill that go into the clothes we buy.’

The book includes simple upcycling techniques and ways to repair and mend clothes with diagrams of basic hand-stitching, and how to darn and sew on a button. It includes examples and profiles of slow clothing as lived practice.

‘Hand stitching is a mindful and useful activity. My book demystifies and makes it accessible to everyone – as a way to explore our own creativity and do our bit for planetary health by extending the useful life of existing clothes. When we can mend and make our own mark on things, we are liberated from commodification and an endless search for meaning though buying more stuff.’

Jane’s Slow Clothing philosophy and action is part of our revaluation of material things and the search for meaning beyond consumerism. It is about connection to what we wear, and about caring for planetary health and wellbeing rather than branding and image.

‘In the rush to own things for reasons of status and looks, we lose the opportunity to be mindful and resourceful through the act of making and creating,’ she said.

‘Australians consume double the global average and are the world’s second-largest consumers after north Americans, based on annual apparel fibre estimates. And two-thirds of new clothing is now made from synthetic (ie plastic) fibres, derived from petroleum.

‘Dressing is an agricultural act if we want to wear natural fibres such as wool, which is renewable and biodegradable. The alternative is synthetic fibres like polyester, derived from petroleum and known to shed microplastic particles into the ecosystem with every wash.’

Jane founded Textile Beat in Brisbane in 2013 as a way of exploring creative, sustainable, affordable and ethical ways of dressing that don’t harm people, places or the planet. She has presented and gathering information from hundreds of workshops and talks with various groups, teachers, students and local councils.

Rethinking clothing culture is essential to turning the tide on the exploitation of garment workers caught within global supply-chain empires that foster fast and wasteful consumption.

Slow Clothing: finding meaning in what we wear is a 192-page paperback with 250 illustrations, available in Australia via textilebeat.com for $28 plus postage and internationally via Book Depository and Amazon.

…………..

In an era dominated by passive consumption of cheap and synthetic fashion, Jane Milburn arrived at the Slow Clothing philosophy by refashioning garments in her wardrobe to provide meaning and story.

It was also informed by The Slow Clothing Project, Textile Beat’s 2016 campaign to spark conversation about clothing use and reuse by creating a collection of garments handmade by individuals across Australia. The focus was on making your own garments, using natural fibres and textile reuse where possible.  The 40 maker stories which are linked below. For more details about the project, scroll to the bottom.

Dr Nicola Smith – DIY enables direct engagement with physical world, for comfort and creativity.

Dr Nicola Smith wears her comforable and buttonless top made in her style for The Slow Clothing Project.

Dr Nicola Smith wears her comforable and buttonless top made in her style for The Slow Clothing Project.

Jennifer Bain – Meaningful making that reconsiders the wearability of items others discard.

Jennifer Bain shows how she brings meaning to quilts and clothing

Jennifer Bain shows how she brings meaning to quilts and clothing

Michelle and Grace McRae – skills valued for many reasons, including self-worth and resilience

Grace wears garments upcycled by herself and Mum Michelle for The Slow Clothing Project

Grace wears garments upcycled by herself and Mum Michelle for The Slow Clothing Project

Vivienne Poon – values the story and creativity that goes into making a garment of your own

Vivienne Poon wears the garment she created for The Slow Clothing Project.

Vivienne Poon wears the garment she created for The Slow Clothing Project.

Jenny Jackett – ‘through the hand-making process we learn the values of time, effort and quality”

Jenny Jacket wears her coat of many colours handmade for The Slow Clothing Project.

Jenny Jacket wears her coat of many colours handmade for The Slow Clothing Project.

Jemma Edwards – Rejects fast fashion in favour of unique, handmade garments

Jemma Edwards created a jacket embellished with bespoke floral prints for The Slow Clothing Project.

Jemma Edwards created a jacket embellished with bespoke floral prints for The Slow Clothing Project.

Deborah Palmer – Upcycling captures memories and extends the life of retired garments

Helen Gainer wears meaningful garments upcycled by her daughter Deborah Palmer

Helen Gainer wears meaningful garments upcycled by her daughter Deborah Palmer

Julie Livingstone – it is good for our mental wellbeing to be able to create something.

Julie Livingstone wears a vest she recreated from op-shop-found denim for The Slow Clothing Project.

Julie Livingstone wears a vest she recreated from op-shop-found denim for The Slow Clothing Project.

Bron Berkin – Observing something transform from a square of material is so satisfying

Bron Berkin wears her upcycled Wolf Tee Dress for The Slow Clothing Project

Bron Berkin wears her upcycled Wolf Tee Dress for The Slow Clothing Project

Eliza Kelly – Eliza believes there is huge value in using your hands to create

Eliza Kelly from Parkes NSW wears her upcycled denim skirt for The Slow Clothing Project

Eliza Kelly from Parkes NSW wears her upcycled denim skirt for The Slow Clothing Project

Wendi Trulson – The whole world needs a lesson, in repurpose, refashion, mend and fix

Wendi Trulson wears her eco-dye upcycled wool and cashmere swing top for The Slow Clothing Project

Wendi Trulson wears her eco-dye upcycled wool and cashmere swing top for The Slow Clothing Project

Sarah Lundgren – believes creativity is important for wellbeing and good health

 Sarah-Lundgren-wears-her-eco-creation-for-The-Slow-Clothing-Project


Sarah-Lundgren-wears-her-eco-creation-for-The-Slow-Clothing-Project

Kate Fletcher – Kate’s favourite clothes are created with a conglomeration of different makers

Tasmania's Kate Fletcher wears her story-filled garment hand-stitched for The Slow Clothing Project

Tasmania’s Kate Fletcher wears her story-filled garment hand-stitched for The Slow Clothing Project

Cathy Stuart – believes the act of making something can create a deep sense of satisfaction.

Jasmine wears an upcycled couture creation made by her mother Cathy Stuart for The Slow Clothing Project

Jasmine wears an upcycled couture creation made by her mother Cathy Stuart for The Slow Clothing Project

Denise Traynor – reusing items helps to counteract the wasteful, mass consumption model.

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Mei models the dress and cardigan Denise Traynor shibori-dyed as a matched outfit for The Slow Clothing Project

Mariana Kirova – professional upcycler, an eco-fashion educator and an agent for change.

Mariana Kirova creates an eco-fashion statement ensemble for The Slow Clothing Project.

Mariana Kirova creates an eco-fashion statement ensemble for The Slow Clothing Project.

Nina van Hartskamp – true empowerment comes when you create the life you want

Nina van Hartskamp wears an eco-print wool jacket she transformed for The Slow Clothing Project

Nina van Hartskamp wears an eco-print wool jacket she transformed for The Slow Clothing Project

Rozalie Sherwood – loves educating people about the potential of making one special jacket

Olivia wears the jacket made for her by mum Rozalie Sherwood as part of The Slow Clothing Project

Olivia wears the jacket made for her by mum Rozalie Sherwood as part of The Slow Clothing Project

Saadia Thomson – making for sustainability, creativity, self-expression, uniqueness, enjoyment

Erin Thomson wears an apron made by her mum Saadia from a rescued business shirt for The Slow Clothing Project

Erin Thomson wears an apron made by her mum Saadia from a rescued business shirt for The Slow Clothing Project

Sally Harris – ‘When you make something yourself, you have a greater sense of wellbeing’

Sally Harris wears a wool poncho she made from a knee rug for The Slow Clothing Project.

Sally Harris wears a wool poncho she made from a knee rug for The Slow Clothing Project.

Xin Wang – cherishes garments more since she knows the effort and time taken to make

Gorgeous Flora Hanisch wears a dress handmade by her mum Xin

Gorgeous Flora Hanisch wears a dress handmade by her mum Xin

Barbara Sherlock – “I adapt the clothing to fit my figure, my lifestyle and my age group”

Barbara Sherlock upcycled a wool skirt into a sleeveless vest for The Slow Clothing Project.

Barbara Sherlock upcycled a wool skirt into a sleeveless vest for The Slow Clothing Project.

Cath Jarvis – she learned to sew after realising these skills are useful for sustainable living

Cath Jarvis wears the pinny she created from discarded jeans and work shorts

Cath Jarvis wears the pinny she created for The Slow Clothing Project from discarded jeans and work shorts

Genevieve Manhal – learning problem-solving and critical thinking through the design process

Genevieve Manhal made this versatile pinafore/skirt from resources already in circulation for The Slow Clothing Project.

Genevieve Manhal from south Gippsland made this versatile pinafore/skirt for The Slow Clothing Project.

Frances Leske – making her own clothing brings joy and self-confidence

Frances Leske used fabric gifted from her mother to create wide-leg pants and a top for The Slow Clothing Project.

Frances Leske used fabric gifted from her mother to create wide-leg pants and a top for The Slow Clothing Project.

Tamara Russell –  believes the slow, meditative process of stitching is great for body and soul.

Tamara Russell made a signature wool cardigan for The Slow Clothing Project.

Tamara Russell made a signature wool cardigan for The Slow Clothing Project.

Dr Jenny Ostini – ‘sewing gives me the chance to slow down and create’

Jenny Ostini wears handmade jackets created for The Slow Clothing Project, worn with op shop-found black dress

Jenny Ostini wears handmade jackets created for The Slow Clothing Project, worn with op shop-found black dress

Leeyong Soo – loves the palpable satisfaction of making and remaking her own clothes

Leeyong Soo wears one of the five garments she created from one caftan for The Slow Clothing Project.

Leeyong Soo wears one of the five garments she created from one caftan for The Slow Clothing Project.

Emma Williamson – ‘supporting handmade, ethically produced items has many benefits’

Emma Williamson wears the dress she made from a sheet for The Slow Clothing Project

Emma Williamson wears the dress she made from a sheet for The Slow Clothing Project. Photo by Helen Osler

Kerri Harris – “it’s such a shame to lose sewing skills when they’re relatively easy to master”

Kerri Harris wears the garment she recreated for The Slow Clothing Project. Photos by Giulio Saggin

Kerri Harris wears the garment she recreated for The Slow Clothing Project. Photos by Giulio Saggin

Elizabeth Kingston – believes in shifting thinking from being ‘in fashion’ to being ‘in style’

Elizabeth Kingston wears her Frida Kahlo-inspired ensemble handmade and styled from existing resources

Elizabeth Kingston wears her Frida Kahlo-inspired ensemble handmade and styled from existing resources

Majella Albion – encouraging a more frugal attitude towards the use of material resources.

Majella Albion wears the upcycled skirt she made for The Slow Clothing Project.

Majella Albion wears the upcycled skirt she made for The Slow Clothing Project.

Paisley Park – conscious of what surrounds her, including food, clothing, people, environment

Paisley Park in the dress she created from cotton offcuts for The Slow Clothing Project

Paisley Park in the dress she created from cotton offcuts for The Slow Clothing Project

Miriam Gillham – sewing enables you to create clothing that is considered and thoughtful

Miriam Gillham with the supersized dress she repurposed for daughter for The Slow Clothing Project

Fiona Saunders – her life has always included handmade, recycled and repurposed clothes

Fiona Saunders wears upcycled silk and lace garment she created for The Slow Clothing Project

Fiona Saunders wears upcycled silk and lace garment she created for The Slow Clothing Project

Dr Libby Woodhams – demonstrating creative reuse and the wonderful properties of wool

Dr Libby Woodhams created this reversible wrap skirt for The Slow Clothing Project

Dr Libby Woodhams created this reversible wrap skirt for The Slow Clothing Project

Annabelle Brayley – a best-selling author who makes all her ‘good’ clothes from natural fibres.

Annabelle Brayley renovated a handmade favourite linen jacket for The Slow Clothing Project

Annabelle Brayley renovated a handmade favourite linen jacket for The Slow Clothing Project

Neroli Roocke – a journalist who believes thinking about consumption is a key to sustainability

Maker Neroli Roocke wears a skirt she created from vintage curtains for The Slow Clothing Project

Maker Neroli Roocke wears a skirt she created from vintage curtains for The Slow Clothing Project

Kylie Challenor – a professional editor who taught herself to sew as a adult

Julie Challenor frock

Julie Hillier – teaching handmade with a contemporary twist at Ministry of Handmade

Julie Hillier in Audrey dress horizontal

Jane Milburn – project leader and founder of Textile Beat

Jane Milburn in upcycled eco-dye t-shirt dress. Photo by Darcy Milburn

After more than a decade of ‘disposable’ fast fashion, there’s growing interest in ethical and sustainable clothing with a good story to tell.

We created a collection of handmade garments during 2016, some of which will be showcased at a number of conferences and public spaces during  2016 and 2017. Each garment becomes a different story about mindful and sustainable resource use told through various voices.

These stories reflect Slow Clothing Manifesto actions we can take to reduce our clothing footprint: think, natural, quality, local, care, few, make, adapt, revive and salvage.

The project narrative weaves knowledge and skills to help people choose well, use clothes for longer and reduce textile waste in landfill. It celebrates the mindful/healthful benefits of handmade and will grow awareness of the usefulness of stitching and sewing. It explores the history of natural-fibre industries in Australia, and celebrates local growers and makers.

We are based in Australia, that’s local to us. Yet this project has a global mission which aligns with Goal 12 of the United Nations’ 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development: Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns.

Stitching skills and agency are antidotes to fast fashion

Developing stitching skills and regenerating our own agency in the wardrobe are antidotes to fast fashion, according to Churchill Fellow Jane Milburn who spent two months in 2022 researching upcycling actions that help reduce textile waste and enhance wellbeing.

Slow fashion practitioners Jane met include Bea Lorimer in NZ, Amy du Fault and Cal Patch in the USA.

Jane’s multidisciplinary project is at the intersection of culture, creativity, science, health and wellbeing in the way we dress. It aims to inspire social change and contribute to climate action and sustainable living across communities by shifting the culture of fast fashion consumption towards slow clothing philosophy and practice.

It highlights citizens, educators, designers, influencers and practitioners who are independent from fast fashion because they have developed their own style, regenerated their own agency and empowered themselves through fit-for-purpose wardrobe solutions that offer diverse entry points.

Jane’s fellowship is about disrupting the fashion system through the power of consumer behaviour and choices because there is no better time for the citizenry to be activated and engaged through everyday practices. It is about taking charge of our clothes, divesting ourselves from dependency on destructive systems by becoming actively engaged in and caring for what we wear rather than passively choosing from the latest offerings. It is grounded in the practices, choices and actions that reduce our material footprint: think, natural, quality, local, few, care, make, revive, adapt and salvage as outlined in The Slow Clothing Manifesto.

It is about regenerating our own agency and being empowered through skills, knowledge and desire to assemble a wardrobe of garments that we want to wear and keep in service for as long as possible. Agency is attained through simple skills to undertake acts of styling, mending, co-designing, and upcycling to appreciate and value the natural resources that go into clothes and manipulating them to fit our needs. Being more engaged with our clothes is a driver for systemic change as well as bringing with it financial, environmental, empowerment and wellbeing benefits. At its simplest, it is being resourceful and using commonsense; neither expensive nor particularly difficult.

There has been a global awakening about the environmental and social issues around what we wear. You can watch documentaries, read books, magazine and media stories carrying the message of deleterious impacts of excessive production and consumption.

“Even during my Fellowship, New Scientist magazine’s cover story asked the question Can Fashion Ever Be Green? (June 4, 2022) and its editorial said ‘Make do and mend: The fashion world must change its environmentally destructive ways’. It concluded with this comment: Here’s to a make-do-and-mend mindset becoming mainstream – and even fashionable.’’

“These actions are the essence of my Churchill Fellowship which investigates wearers being hands-on and taking charge of their wardrobe to reduce waste and enhance wellbeing. Across the world, I found many individuals, academics, social enterprise and small business change agents envisaging and implementing small and slow solutions that can help people solve problems in their wardrobes,” Jane said.

In the United Kingdom, Jane met with Professor Kate Fletcher, co-author of Earth Logic: fashion action research plan which calls for a profound rethink of fashion in the face of the climate crisis. Her fellowship fits with the Earth Logic model under the section of learning new knowledge, skills and mindsets for fashion, and pertains to how we ‘acquire, care for and mend clothing, how to share clothing, how to want the clothes we already have’.

In the United Kingdom, the United States of America, and New Zealand, Jane found many people learning and sharing skills for empowerment to create change and enhance health and wellbeing:

  • EMPOWERMENT: Designer Cal Patch teaches people how to use their own body shape and aesthetic to make clothes to suit themselves. Learning from Cal enabled Sonya Philip to sew her way out of a clothing drought and author a how-to book The Act of Sewing.
  • SKILLS: Teacher Ros Studd responded to the lack of mending skills traditionally learned through schools or families with a free learning platform, while groups such as Sewing Café Lancaster gather and engage their community by sharing sewing skills.
  • HEALTH and WELLBEING: Entrepreneur Geraldine Tew observed the lack of making causing un-wellness and created an upcycling workshop program engaging designers such as Bea Lorimer to share skills and experiences that can inspire more upcycling at home.

These actions, and this report, form part of what Earth Logic describes as an activist knowledge ecology, a platform for the parallel generation of knowledge, action, empowerment and change.

A summary of ways this Churchill Fellowship found people are undertaking actions that help in REDUCING TEXTILE WASTE include:

  1. restyling and wearing what is already in the wardrobe
  2. thrifting, mending and dyeing existing clothes
  3. redesigning, co-designing using existing clothing and materials
  4. making their own clothes, some hand-stitching to further slow the process
  5. liberating and sharing dormant and waste textile resources within local supply chains
  6. skill and knowledge sharing within communities
  7. supporting local, regenerative natural fibre and design systems

A summary of ways people are ENHANCING WELLBEING from hands-on actions include:

  1. a sense of empowerment and agency over what they wear
  2. a sense of playfulness, joy and self-expression in having interesting clothes
  3. feelings of calm, relaxation, self-soothing, distraction, resilience and meditation
  4. comfort from slowing down, thinking through making, and being resourceful
  5. a felt sense of meaning and mindful connection to self, clothes and community
  6. a sense of contributing to broader solutions for fashion waste
  7. feelings of interconnection to nature and the natural world

“My report is available on the Churchill Trust website and includes ways that all citizens with a can-do, will-do, mindset can regenerate their agency when they allocate leisure time to resourceful creativity rather than shopping for quick fixes,” Jane said.

While the ‘making do’ in earlier times was born from lack of resources and most people did it,  nowadays ‘making do’ is more likely to be a response to excess and, ironically, it may be the privileged who are currently most engaged. Modern ‘making do’ is more about choices and actions to be resourceful and sustainable, more likely about saving the planet than specifically needing to save money.

“The people I met have become more self-reliant in various ways by developing skills and insights to make themselves independent of the fashion supply chain. They are reclaiming control of their wardrobe by being more hands-on in creatively making, mending, redesigning or restyling clothes already around them to reduce waste and enhance wellbeing. They are empowered through what they wear and uninterested in slavishly following trends that provide fleeting satisfaction at best.

“Through this Fellowship, I tapped into the citizenry swimming against the all-consuming tide. They are engaging in hands-on processes that enable a consumption pause, taking time for self-reflection and working with what is at hand before making considered decisions in any new purchases.

“These citizens are showing that culture change is possible when we inform ourselves and learn skills of independence and resourcefulness, and invest time in the process. “

RECOMMENDATIONS from Jane’s Fellowship are:

  1. More education around hand-sewing skills for mending, tinkering and mindfulness
  2. More opportunities to engage and share clothing resources, skills and creativity
  3. Wellbeing services based around regenerating agency in the wardrobe
  4. Redesign services that enable engagement and co-design
  5. More engagement through opportunities to practice permaculture and citizen science
  6. More awareness-raising of unsustainable consumer culture and greenwashing
  7. Localisation to promote and enable place-based fibre systems and culture

This Fellowship is a step towards changing the consumer culture of dependence on global fast fashion supply chains to one of independent flourishing of local creativity, engagement and connection through what we choose to wear.

It brings focus to the concept of dressing for health and wellbeing rather than status and looks, and outlines how engaged citizens can gain wellbeing benefits by regenerating their own agency using what is around them and, in so doing, contribute to reducing the textile waste burden.

“We can’t change the world, but what we can do is change the way we live through our everyday practices. Those small decisions and choices for living simply are within our means, they are the steps to leading a modest yet fulfilling life in harmony with the natural world.”

Story first published in QCWA’s Ruth Magazine

slow clothing stories in Ruth Magazine Summer 2022 23

Churchill Fellow finds stitching skills and agency are antidotes to fast fashion

Developing stitching skills and regenerating our own agency in the wardrobe are antidotes to fast fashion, according to Churchill Fellow Jane Milburn who spent two months researching upcycling actions that help reduce textile waste and enhance wellbeing.

Jane’s multidisciplinary project is at the intersection of culture, creativity, science, health and wellbeing in the way we dress. It aims to inspire social change and contribute to climate action and sustainable living across communities by shifting the culture of fast fashion consumption towards slow clothing philosophy and practice.

It highlights citizens, educators, designers, influencers and practitioners who are independent from fast fashion because they have developed their own style, regenerated their own agency and empowered themselves through fit-for-purpose wardrobe solutions that offer diverse entry points.

One of 55 people Jane met on her Churchill Fellowship was Professor Kate Fletcher, co-author of Earth Logic.

This fellowship is about disrupting the fashion system through the power of consumer behaviour and choices because there is no better time for the citizenry to be activated and engaged through everyday practices. It is about taking charge of our clothes, divesting ourselves from dependency on destructive systems by becoming actively engaged in and caring for what we wear rather than passively choosing from the latest offerings. It is grounded in the practices, choices and actions that reduce our material footprint: think, natural, quality, local, few, care, make, revive, adapt and salvage as outlined in The Slow Clothing Manifesto.

It is about regenerating our own agency and being empowered through skills, knowledge and desire to assemble a wardrobe of garments that we want to wear and keep in service for as long as possible. Agency is attained through simple skills to undertake acts of styling, mending, co-designing, and upcycling to appreciate and value the natural resources that go into clothes and manipulating them to fit our needs. Being more engaged with our clothes is a driver for systemic change as well as bringing with it financial, environmental, empowerment and wellbeing benefits. At its simplest, it is being resourceful and using commonsense; neither expensive nor particularly difficult.

“Across the world, I found many individuals, academics, social enterprise and small business change agents envisaging and implementing small and slow solutions that can help people solve problems in their wardrobes,” Jane said.

A summary of ways people are undertaking actions that help in REDUCING TEXTILE WASTE include:

  1. restyling and wearing what is already in the wardrobe
  2. thrifting, mending and dyeing existing clothes
  3. redesigning, co-designing using existing clothing and materials
  4. making their own clothes, some hand-stitching to further slow the process
  5. liberating and sharing dormant and waste textile resources within local supply chains
  6. skill and knowledge sharing within communities
  7. supporting local, regenerative natural fibre and design systems

A summary of ways people are ENHANCING WELLBEING from hands-on actions include:

  1. a sense of empowerment and agency over what they wear
  2. a sense of playfulness, joy and self-expression in having interesting clothes
  3. feelings of calm, relaxation, self-soothing, distraction, resilience and meditation
  4. comfort from slowing down, thinking through making, and being resourceful
  5. a felt sense of meaning and mindful connection to self, clothes and community
  6. a sense of contributing to broader solutions for fashion waste
  7. feelings of interconnection to nature and the natural world

This report includes ways that all citizens with a can-do, will-do, mindset can regenerate their agency when they allocate leisure time to resourceful creativity rather than shopping for quick fixes.

While the ‘making do’ in earlier times was born from lack of resources and most people did it,  nowadays ‘making do’ is more likely to be a response to excess and, ironically, it may be the privileged who are currently most engaged. Modern ‘making do’ is more about choices and actions to be resourceful and sustainable, more likely about saving the planet than specifically needing to save money.

“The people I met have become more self-reliant in various ways by developing skills and insights to make themselves independent of the fashion supply chain. They are reclaiming control of their wardrobe by being more hands-on in creatively making, mending, redesigning or restyling clothes already around them to reduce waste and enhance wellbeing. They are empowered through what they wear and uninterested in slavishly following trends that provide fleeting satisfaction at best.

“Through this Fellowship, I tapped into the citizenry swimming against the all-consuming tide. They are engaging in hands-on processes that enable a consumption pause, taking time for self-reflection and working with what is at hand before making considered decisions in any new purchases.

“These citizens are showing that culture change is possible when we inform ourselves and learn skills of independence and resourcefulness, and invest time in the process. “

RECOMMENDATIONS from Jane’s Fellowship are:

  1. More education around hand-sewing skills for mending, tinkering and mindfulness
  2. More opportunities to engage and share clothing resources, skills and creativity
  3. Wellbeing services based around regenerating agency in the wardrobe
  4. Redesign services that enable engagement and co-design
  5. More engagement through opportunities to practice permaculture and citizen science
  6. More awareness-raising of unsustainable consumer culture and greenwashing
  7. Localisation to promote and enable place-based fibre systems and culture

This Fellowship is a step towards changing the consumer culture of dependence on global fast fashion supply chains to one of independent flourishing of local creativity, engagement and connection through what we choose to wear.

It brings focus to the concept of dressing for health and wellbeing rather than status and looks, and outlines how engaged citizens can gain wellbeing benefits by regenerating their own agency using what is around them and, in so doing, contribute to reducing the textile waste burden.

“We can’t change the world, but what we can do is change the way we live through our everyday practices. Those small decisions and choices for living simply are within our means, they are the steps to leading a modest yet fulfilling life in harmony with the natural world.”

Read the summary Jane Milburn Churchill Fellowship Project Summary September 2022 online

Read the full report Jane Milburn Churchill Fellowship Report 28 September 2022 online

Download Jane Milburn’s full report from the Churchill Trust website here.

Churchill fellow investigates ways to reduce our material footprint

Hot on the heels of Earth Day (April 22) and Fashion Revolution Week (April 18-24), Churchill fellow Jane Milburn departed on April 28 to undertake fellowship study investigating ways that being more aware and hands-on with clothes can help reduce our material footprint.

Clothing accounts for up to 10 percent of our environmental footprint and everyday practices that extend the lifespan of clothes – caring, repairing, rewearing, restyling, upcycling – can reduce its ecological impact and create independence from fast-fashion cycles.

Since 2012, Jane has advocated for living simply through sustainable practices with a particular focus on how we choose, care for and dispose of clothing. Jane won a Churchill Fellowship in 2019 to “investigate ways that hands-on upcycling can help reduce textile waste and enhance wellbeing” but her 2020 trip was postponed due to the pandemic. This week Jane begins eight weeks’ travel in New Zealand, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Japan to meet with slow fashion practitioners, academics and sustainability leaders.

Jane Milburn interviewed by ABC Mornings Presenter Rebecca Levingston before leaving on her fellowship.

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Jane Milburn awarded OAM

Since 2012, Jane Milburn has advocated for living simply through sustainable everyday practices with a particular focus on how we choose, care for and dispose of clothing, and a decade on has been awarded a Medal of the Order of Australia for service to fashion sustainability.

Jane Milburn, OAM, recognised for slow clothing advocacy. Photo by Robin McConchie

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On the Textile Beat enews

Our enews update, On the Textile Beat November 2021, includes this graphic, below, summarising circular textile approaches: practical, mechanical, chemical, microbial and by design which I shared at a recent Circular Economy Futures event in Brisbane.

Everyone can enact the practical approach through everyday actions and choices as per the Slow Clothing Manifesto: think, natural, quality, local, few, care, make, revive, adapt and salvage.

 

Permaculture your wardrobe

Permaculture clothing is real; it is what I wear. All my wardrobe selections are natural fibres, made and mended, thrifted and repurposed, adapted to suit current needs. Produce no waste, slow and small solutions, creatively use and respond to change. Permaculture principles to live and dress by for a more permanent culture.

I was invited to present a session on Permaculture your Wardrobe at the 2021 Australasian Permaculture Convergence and delighted to have my work described there by permaculture leader Robin Clayfield as a ‘new edge’. Also delighted to recently chat with global permaculture ambassador Morag Gamble on her podcast Sense-making in a changing world.

Michael Wardle of Savour Soils Permaculture and Jane Milburn at the 2021 Australasian Permaculture Convergence

Dressing is integral to life. Skin is our largest organ and we can think about clothes doing for us on the outside what food does inside. They protect and warm our bodies, and influence the way we feel and present to the world. And dressing is an agricultural act, if we want to wear natural fibres rather than plastic fibres.

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