Synthetic fibres do not break down

An Australian backyard science experiment confirms synthetic clothing fibres do not breakdown in soil whereas within a year most natural fibres are returning to organic matter.

On 26 January, 2018, Textile Beat buried synthetic and natural fibre material swatches glued to cardboard by digging a shallow hole in relatively poor soil near a mango tree in a suburban garden in Brisbane. These were covered them with dirt and leaf litter, and occasionally watered (twice a month) until January 2019 when they were retrieved.

Range of synthetic and natural fibre swatches as buried in a Brisbane garden January 2018.

The material swatches were mostly remnants from Jane Milburn’s studio or from discarded clothing.

We were curious to confirm that synthetics are plastic-like and remain forever, while natural fibres return to nutrients and organic matter when broken down by microbes and insects in the soil.

We dug them up on January 15, 2019, and this is what we found.

Swatches of synthetic clothing materials before, left, and after being buried for one year in 2018.

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What are your clothes made from?

Clothes are made from three fibre types – synthetic fibres, reconstituted cellulose fibres and natural fibres – or blends of these.

Synthetic fibres – polyester, acrylic and nylon – are derived from petroleum and are a type of plastic. While cheap to produce synthetic fibres shed microplastic when washed, don’t breathe and research shows they are likely to harbour more bacteria and odour than natural fibres. Synthetics also gather static electricity and may cling to your body in uncomfortable and embarrassing ways.

Reconstituted cellulose fibres – such as viscose, rayon, bamboo, lyocell and tencel – while manmade are derived from plants and wood and therefore more natural then synthetics. They have design advantages, are comfortable to wear and easy care but there are concerns about chemicals used in their production.

Natural fibres – cotton, wool and linen – tend to be more expensive and water-intensive to produce, therefore we should treasure them until they wear out. Cotton is the dominant natural fibre. Seek out sustainable and organic cotton where you can. Linen is one of the greenest fibres but often out of favour because it wrinkles (wash, shake, hang to dry and wear without ironing). Hemp is less readily available, but equally as green as linen (if not more so). Animal fibres like wool, alpaca, cashmere and silk are expensive and need a little extra care but will last a long time and wear well between washes.

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Two-thirds of new clothing is plastic

Did you know that synthetic fibres derived from petroleum now dominate the clothing market at a time when research finds these plastic clothes each shed 1900 microplastic particles into the ecosystem with every wash?

The trend towards cheaper synthetic materials accelerated during the past two decades with biodegradable natural fibres making up half of global fibre apparel consumption in 1992 then declining to about one-third by 2013.

A troubling consequence of the rise of synthetics is 2011 shoreline research at 18 sites across the planet led by ecologist Dr Mark Browne which found the majority of accumulated plastic pollution was microplastic fibres that matched the materials found in synthetic clothing.

Clothing consumption figures collated from the Food and Agriculture Organisation and the World Fibre Report (see graph below) show in 1992 natural fibre consumption of 22 million tonnes from a global apparel fibre total of 39 million tonnes – compared with 2013 and 32 million tonnes of natural fibres from the global total consumption of 92 million tonnes. These figures reflect in increasingly bulging wardrobes, with average individual consumption rising from 7kg/person in 1992 compared with 13kg/person in 2013.

world apparel fibre consumption graph web